If you have an artificial tree that’s still in good shape, the answer is simple — just pack it back into the box and put it into the attic or garage for another year. What about a natural tree, though? With environmental sustainability an ever-growing consideration for consumers, it’s no longer as simple as tossing the tree into the next available garbage truck.

It turns out that there are plenty of options for handling this issue. However, one stands out from the rest: mulching. Here’s a look at the most common ways to discard your tree and why mulching might be the best option.

How do I prep my Christmas tree for disposal?

The first stop is understanding your options. Possibilities can and will depend very heavily on local government agencies or businesses. While one city’s government will recycle trees, another’s may not. Any disposal plan should start with finding out what’s available in your community.

Here are some general rules to help you get your old Christmas tree ready to exit stage left:

• Don’t wait for the tree to dry out. Dry trees pose a fire hazard.
• When you’re ready, remove the tree stand, tree skirt, ornaments, and lights.
• Before you move the tree, keep things clean by covering the tree with a large plastic tree removal bag (available from Christmas tree vendors as well as big-box or holiday stores). However, you should check with your final destination first, as some do not accept bagged trees.
• If you have an old blanket or sheet, this could also help contain the mess as you move the tree outside.
• If you’re setting your tree on the curb, be aware of and follow any instructions from those doing the removal.
• Be sure the tree does not block access to roads, driveways, sidewalks, or mailboxes.

Now that your tree is properly prepared, it’s time to figure out where it’s going. Somewhere a little greener? Let’s see.

What are the potential options for Christmas tree removal?

Before we get to mulching, let’s take a look at some of the other options that are available.

Curbside trash pickup: Even with so many new options out there, millions of trees each year still end up in landfills. This may not be ideal, especially for those concerned about how we use and manage natural resources, but hey — at least you got your living room back.

Donate to a parks or wildlife agency: Live Christmas trees can sometimes be donated to state parks or wildlife preserves, which use old trees to create new animal habitats — both on land and in the water.

Compost: The branches of a retired Christmas tree are welcome additions to the compost pile. They allow for good airflow through the compost and bring extra moisture to the environment. In many places, there are year-round services, including businesses that’ll take compost materials off your hands. Poke around and see if any accept Christmas trees.

Replant: This is only an option if your tree has its roots intact, which means the vast majority of Christmas revelers won’t be able to use this option. If you’re one of the few who has a tree with its roots still attached, move the tree outside to a cool, dry place for a few days to let it re-acclimate to the outdoor conditions. Then dig a hole at least twice as wide as the root system. Drop in your tree, fill in the hole, and water it, and then you’re all set.

Why is mulching your Christmas tree the best option?

Also known as “treecycling,” mulching can be an easy and practical way to dispose of your old Christmas tree.

Here’s that broken record again: You’ll need to check with your local government agencies or nurseries to see if they make this option available. Some city governments and businesses accept Christmas trees and grind them into mulch, which they sometimes then sell or use in local landscapes and parks. If it’s the government doing the treecycling, it could be as easy as putting your tree on the curb.

Even if there’s no curbside Christmas tree pickup in your area, local groups will often hold treecycling events where you can drop off your tree for mulching, often deep into the month of January. In many instances, they’ll give you a bag of your own mulch to take home. For gardeners, that couldn’t come at a more opportune time. Mulch is essential for good plant health during cold-weather months. Think of it as a blanket for your garden that works to stave off frost and help excess water move through the soil.

It can also be fun to make the mulch yourself. Discard the needles and cut or chop the branches into small chunks. Cathartic!

Since you’re often able to reap the rewards yourself and don’t need a lot of extra steps or equipment to do it, mulching may be the best option for discarding your old Christmas tree. Whether you take it to your city government or mulch it yourself, it’s a fun and low- or no-cost option. You can also feel good about doing something green and closing the consumption loop by putting the old Christmas tree back in (or on) the earth. That seems like a fitting way to close out the season.

If you’re a ZZ plant owner or are thinking about investing in a ZZ plant, do you have cause to worry? What are the precautions you can take to ensure that you, your children, and your animals stay safe?

Here’s everything you need to know about the ZZ plant, its toxicity profile, and how to safely maintain it.

ZZ plant care: The basics

Although these plants prefer bright, indirect sunlight, they are of several indoor plant varieties that can thrive in lower lighting conditions. They are also highly resistant to drought and forgiving of owners who forget to water or are away from the home or office for extended periods of time. Ideally, you should water ZZ plants every week, but they can survive for longer without water. Overwatering can cause the roots to rot, so make sure your setup provides effective drainage.

ZZ plant toxicity

The ZZ plant is toxic. According to experts at Iowa State University, sharp calcium oxalate crystals within the plant’s sap are toxic and irritating to people and animals that make physical contact with or ingest any part of the plant. You would need to ingest an awful lot of the plant in order for it to become a serious medical issue. Irritation is usually mild. Still, skin can become irritated if it comes in contact with the plant. Ingestion may lead to nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, or stomach pain. Symptoms typically last for a few hours, but in unusual cases can be more severe or prolonged.

Do ZZ plants cause cancer?

Although rumors have persisted over the years that the ZZ plant has carcinogenic effects, there is no scientific evidence whatsoever to support this claim. Think about it: If ZZ plants had been found to increase the risk of cancer, what are the chances they would still be widely available for purchase? It’s unclear how or where this rumor originated, but this misconception is just that — a misconception. There’s nothing to fear! ZZ plants do not cause cancer.

Stay safe with your ZZ plant

A few simple steps can help you safely keep a ZZ plant in your home, even with pets and children in the mix.

Tips for safely caring for your ZZ plant include:

• Wear gloves when handling the plant extensively.
• Wash your hands and tools after handling the ZZ plant.
• Keep ZZ plants out of reach of pets or children.
• If needed, you can keep pets away by spraying the leaves with neem oil or adding coffee grounds to the soil (the odors are off-putting to animals).
• If a pet or child ingests the plant and is still ill after a few hours, call your veterinarian or pediatrician.

The ZZ plant is great for people seeking a tough, versatile indoor plant. While the plant is toxic, it only has mild and short-lived effects. There are rumors that ZZ plants cause cancer, but no evidence exists to support those claims. With a few basic precautions, you can grow your ZZ plant with confidence and watch it thrive for years to come.

So what is a light deprivation (or “light dep”) greenhouse, and how does it work? Here are all the details for understanding this fresh approach to greenhouse gardening and determining whether it’s right for you.

How does a light deprivation greenhouse work?

The light deprivation method is designed to manipulate the amount of light that comes into a greenhouse and when with the end goal of controlling the time it takes for plants to reach maturity and flower. This, in turn, creates more harvests, as a large number of plant varieties won’t produce fruit or flowers until the number of sunlight hours in a given day has dipped below a certain point, hence the need to cover the greenhouse in extra darkness.

To accomplish this, a greenhouse that’s set up for light deprivation artificially controls the influx of light. This is done by blocking sunlight, usually with some kind of cover or shade system. This can be as simple as a plastic tarp or as complex as a fully automated timing system.

The specifics of operating a light dep greenhouse can vary based on what you’re growing and other factors, but in general, each setup should aim to create about 12 hours of uninterrupted darkness. Many growers handle this by covering or shading their greenhouse at 7 p.m. and uncovering it at 7 a.m. This could mean adding and removing your blackout tarp, or simply adjusting your system until it reaches the perfect balance.

The ultimate key is that simple shades won’t do the trick; it needs to be total darkness. That requires special equipment and special setups.

What does a light deprivation greenhouse cost?

There are light deprivation options for every budget. Here’s a cross-section of the possibilities:

• Greenhouse plastic film: For about $100, you can get enough of this sheeting to cover your greenhouse and provide the darkening effect needed for that light-deprivation magic.
• Hoop houses: these small greenhouses are easily converted into light deprivation mode, and range in cost based on size and quality, from around $200 up to several thousand dollars.
• Exhaust fans: particularly important for larger greenhouses, exhaust fans help keep air moving to reduce the buildup of mold and excessive heat, both of which are common side effects of the light deprivation approach. Costs range from $20 for a standard box fan to more than $1,000 for larger, most specialized models.
• Greenhouse kits: Sturdier and typically larger than a hoop house, standard greenhouse kits generally run anywhere from $1,500 to $7,000. Many are designed for light deprivation and come standard with features like built-in exhaust systems.
• Built greenhouses: These are the most solid and well-engineered of the bunch, but you’re going to pay for that quality. Costs on these vary widely, and you’ll need to find and contact a contractor in your area for a quote, but price tags can easily run into five figures.

Your preference depends on your goals, your budget, and your level of motivation. By and large, though, there isn’t a high threshold for converting your existing greenhouse to blackout mode or purchasing all you need to set one up from scratch.

Why is winter a good time for a light deprivation greenhouse?

The truth is that light deprivation greenhouses are useful all year round — whenever you want your plants to flower ahead of schedule. So even if you purchased the system with winter in mind, it would transfer pretty seamlessly to other seasons as well.

That said, there are a couple of advantages that a light deprivation setup can provide in colder weather.

• Keep it growing: With proper covering and ventilation, your plants and flowers can continue to thrive in a light deprivation greenhouse, even during inhospitable weather. A good light deprivation setup helps eliminate condensation buildup, which can occur in the winter and is the sworn enemy of healthy plants everywhere.
• Keep warm: In colder weather, the shading, or “blackout,” materials trap warmth inside the greenhouse, providing extra heat when plants need it most.

In a nutshell, light deprivation greenhouses increase your crop yields throughout all four seasons, including winter, when most gardeners choose not to grow crops at all. If you’re motivated to continue producing fruit or flowers without an off-season in your growing schedule, a light deprivation greenhouse may be for you.

Take a look at these simple steps for safeguarding your barbecue grill and your grilling tools. No matter what kind of grill you have, you’ll be flipping burgers in no time with these helpful tips once spring has properly sprung.

How do I winterize my outdoor barbecue grill?

Most outdoor garden barbecue grills are mobile and can move around easily. However, some grills are a more permanent part of a large patio or outdoor kitchen. Some of these are connected to a dedicated gas line or surrounded by brick or stone.

If you have a stationary outdoor grill, you can still follow these tips, except, of course, for the ones that involve moving the unit.

These tips include:

• Start with a good deep cleaning. This not only keeps your grill in good shape but helps keep bugs, rodents, and other critters away. Turn all burners on as high as they’ll go and let it run with the lid closed for about 15 minutes. Once the grill is completely cool, scrub each grate thoroughly with a grill brush or a balled up wad of aluminum foil.
• If you have a propane tank, shut off the gas, unfasten the burner, disconnect the gas tubes, and remove the tank.
• Coat the burners and other metal parts with cooking oil (cooking spray works great), which helps repel moisture and prevent rust.
• Inspect other internal components and clean as needed with a wire brush.

Looking to winterize your smoker? These steps work well for barbecue smokers too. If you’re using a pellet system, make sure to remove and thoroughly clean it.

How do I store my barbecue grill during cold weather?

Whether you’re storing your grill indoors or out in the elements, you can do so safely while protecting your unit. Check out these tips and apply them to your own storage strategy.

• Is your grill staying outside this winter? Turn off the propane tank but leave it connected, then cover the entire grill with a protective cover.
• For those storing their grill indoors, leave the tank outside. Even small gas leaks pose a serious explosion hazard in enclosed spaces, including garages.
• Store disconnected tanks outside in an upright position and away from dryer vents, furnace vents, and similar areas. (Also, keep away from places where children play.)
• Wrap the burner unit in plastic wrap or a plastic bag. This is another good way to keep pests out of your unit.

If your neck of the woods has milder winters, keeping your outdoor grill indoors won’t be as important. However, storing your grill inside can give you a distinct advantage over the elements in harsher weather. Even if you don’t have the room to bring your grill indoors, consider placing it in a shed or even under the overhang of your roof.

How do I store barbecue tools?

When it comes to storing barbecue tools, there are a few simple rules to follow that keep your spatulas, tongs, forks, and brushes looking clean and pristine.

• If possible, it’s best not to store barbecue tools outside. Bring them indoors and set them out of harm’s way, be it in your garage, a safe drawer, or another space in your house where kids and pets can’t reach them.
• Many tools come with their own storage cases or containers (hopefully, you saved it!). This will provide ideal storage for your utensils.
• Looking to save space? Hang your tools from hooks in the garage or kitchen, or store them in an old toolbox.
• As with the grill burner, wrap tools in plastic wrap or a plastic bag to keep moisture and other elements out.

Outdoor grills can be a perfect cornerstone for your patio, pool party, or your next Tuesday night at home with the family. Taking good care of the unit is like taking care of any investment — it may take a bit of time and elbow grease, but your shiny, pest-free grill will be a welcome sight after the dreary winter months.

Picking the right squash for the job

As many gardeners know, summer squash does not describe a specific species but rather the timing of the harvest. Yellow squash are harvested earlier in their life cycle, when the outer rind is still edible. No need to peel!

Although not all squash varieties are suited for it, some work very well in containers. These include (but are not limited to):

• Bush Acorn squash
• Pattypan squash (think small and round)
• Zucchini varieties including Black Star and Bush Baby
• Crookneck
• Papaya Pear

If you can’t find any of these varieties nearby, there are online sources that sell just about every seed under the sun. What makes these particular varieties of squash such a good fit for container gardening is that they don’t produce large vines that shoot off in all directions, and also require less space to grow. You can grow vining types as well, but they will require more space and some kind of apparatus to control the vines (e.g. a trellis).

Getting started

You’ve selected your seeds; now it’s time to get growing. Growing summer squash in containers is not rocket science, but it does require a little bit of effort. That means selecting the right materials at the outset is a very important step.

Components to consider include:

• Container: Although it may not seem like it, one squash plant can fill a 24-inch pot in no time. Many experts recommend a container of at least five gallons in capacity. If the bottom of your container doesn’t already have holes for drainage, drill some.
• Soil: Begin by spreading gravel at the bottom of the container, then covering it with a piece of wire mesh. This will keep soil from clogging the drainage holes (squash don’t like overwatering). Yellow squash grows best in fertile soils. A rich potting mix that drains well is ideal.
• Temperature: Summer squash prefer warmer temperatures, so plant your container at a time when frost isn’t a threat. The ideal soil temperature for summer squash is 70 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
• Planting: Directly sow about three 1 inch deep inside each container. Be careful not to overcrowd.
• Light: Yellow squash plants grow most effectively under full sun. Select a permanent location for your container that will be in as much direct sunlight as possible.

One note to be aware of: Your squash plants may wilt under full sun, but this is normal and doesn’t mean your plants are in danger. At night, you’ll notice them returning back to normal as temperatures start to go down.

Care and maintenance

Like most plants, summer squash have their own special needs for food and water.

Feeding: Yellow squash are big eaters, with container squash needing more food than plants that were planted without containers. Once your plants sprout leaves, roughly three weeks after planting, feed them with slow-release fertilizer. Then fertilize weekly. Check individual product labels for more information before you buy.

Water: Obviously, this one depends heavily on the region where you live. If you live in a rainy climate, your squash is probably getting enough moisture. Drier climates should water daily. To check whether your plant needs water, stick your finger about an inch down into the soil. Was the soil dry? Then it’s time to water. Always water deeply, especially if your container has drainage holes. Try not to get too much water on the leaves, as this increases the risk of disease.

Harvesting

Check your seed packet to find out how long after planting you can expect to harvest. In general, though, never pull the ripened squash directly off of the vines. Instead, use sterilized pruning shears to snip the squash off the vine, leaving an inch or so of stem behind. Once you’ve harvested, get ready to enjoy your sumptuous squash. If you harvest frequently, more fruit will grow.

Summer squash are a delicious addition to anyone’s harvest. Growing in containers may seem restrictive at first, but once started, summer squash can grow happily there for years to come.

Does any of that sound appealing? You may be ready to make a long-term investment in a heavy-duty gas grill. A solid gas grill is easy and economical to use, stands up to wear and tear over time, is fairly simple to use and maintain, and can provide the kind of flexibility and functionality you need in an everyday cooking space.

There are hundreds of models of gas grills out there, from tiny table top models to supercharged behemoths that stretch well into five-figure territory. So how are you supposed to know where to start? Luckily — we’re here to help you out. We scoured Amazon to find the highest-rated, most reputable gas grills out there. All three of the models below meet the sweet spot between quality, value, and function.

Things to keep in mind before you buy your grill

Before we get to the recommendations, here are some things to remember when shopping for a grill.

• Burners: These should be made of stainless steel or be porcelain-coated to fend off rust.
• Durability: Look for cast aluminum, cast iron, enamel-bonded steel, and stainless steel. Sturdy legs are a huge plus.
• Cleaning and maintenance: This will vary by model, but check to see how grease and other waste is collected and how easy it is to remove. Also check whether the grates are removable and whether it’s easy to access burners and other parts that will need to be cleaned or replaced.
• Size: This also varies based on personal preferences and other factors, but a general goal is 72 inches (or 8 by 9 inches) of grilling space for each person you want to cook for. Grill size in total square inches tends to be readily available and is listed for our three models below.
• Fuel type: Propane or natural gas? Natural gas requires a permanent gas line at the location of your grill, while propane gives you more flexibility in terms of moving and storing your grill. It will probably make your search go more smoothly if you decide on a preference before you get started.

Now that we have that in place, let’s look at the best ones to buy.

Good: Blackstone 1554 Flat Top Gas Grill

Size: 720 square inches

Everything but the microwave. Powered by four propane burners, this grill closely approximates what you’d find in many restaurant kitchens, with a wide “flat top” griddle surface designed to handle hamburgers right alongside over-easy eggs.

If you’re looking for grill marks, this one isn’t for you. It also does not have a stove burner. But if you want cooking surface and a lot of it — and an investment that won’t wreck your budget — this may be your best bet.

Better: Napoleon Rogue SE 625 Gas Grill

Size: 980 square inches

Available in propane or natural gas, five stainless-steel burners get this unit cranking fast. And that’s just the beginning. The unit comes standard with two infrared burners: One is for a rotisserie and the other is a “sear station” for steaks and chops. It also has the largest cook space of all our winners, with nearly 1,000 square inches.

It’s hard to find a weakness on units this good, but this model also lacks a stove burner. In this writer’s humble opinion, the ability to boil water or keep chili simmering makes a burner worth its weight in gold.

Best: Weber Summit S-670 LP Gas Grill

Size: 769 square inches

This propane-fueled gem has six burners, including that sought-after stove-style side burner. It also includes infrared rotisserie and searing burners, then ups the ante with a smoker burner. Its LED fuel level indicator will also come in handy time and again.

The main drawback? This is a major financial investment, and it may be more grill than you need. Before you pony up, think long and hard about whether you’ll use a smoker burner.

Although these are ranked based on features and function, all are well-constructed, thoughtfully developed products that can serve you well for years to come, even under the heavy duty of frequent meal prep. If you want a gas grill as a second kitchen, these are three elite-level options.

And it’s far more than an attractive addition to your home garden. Originating in East and South Asia, sago palms have long been cultivated for a variety of uses. Although extremely toxic in its natural state, a properly processed sago palm remains a food staple in many Pacific nations and is frequently used in the production of goods ranging from textiles to soft drinks.

In Western cultures, the sago palm has garnered plenty of fans who treasure it for its bright green, featherlike fronds. It’s also easy enough for even novices to grow. If you’re in the market for a perfect ornamental, the sago palm may be just what you’re looking for. Here’s a closer look at this popular tree and how to grow and care for it at home.

Should I grow sago palms indoors or outdoors?

The short answer is — both are great options! How’s that for a versatile plant? It’s a snap to grow a sago palm indoors as a houseplant, regardless of where you live.

They also work well as an outdoor plant, but only in places with warmer winters. And during the summer, they need partial shade to help prevent those delicate leaves from burning in direct sunlight.

Bottom line: It’s safer to keep your sago palm indoors, but they can thrive in either environment.

How to plant and care for sago palms

The sago palm is popular in part because of how easy it is to maintain. Still, there are a few things to be mindful of in caring for your palm, including their acute toxicity.

These straightforward steps will help ensure both the safety of your household and a healthy sago palm.

• Look for a spot with bright but indirect sunlight.
• Sandy, well-draining soil is ideal.
• Sago palms tolerate drought well, so infrequent watering is best, roughly every one to two weeks.
• On the flip side, overwatering can make the plant more vulnerable to disease.
• Use caution if growing a sago palm in a household with children or pets.
• Avoid contact with skin and wear gloves while handling.
• Keep away from air vents.
• Sago palms prefer a humid environment. Regular misting can help increase air moisture in drier locations.

As you can see, it doesn’t take a master gardener to keep a sago palm satisfied. Insects and other pests are not a major problem. The biggest potential issue is white scale, which is treatable with natural oils and other readily available white scale-specific treatments.

How to propagate a sago palm

Sago palms mature slowly, taking five years or longer to reach their natural height, which is about two feet indoors. They also require the presence of both a mature male and a female in order to produce a viable seed. Because of this, many gardeners grow new sago palms using “pups,” the gardening term for the small clones that grow up around the base of its trunk.

Here’s how to split off those sago pups to propagate new palms.

• Don’t forget to put your gloves on before you get to work.
• Using a sharp, sterilized cutting implement, remove the pups from as close to the base of the parent plant as possible.
• Remove the pup’s roots and cut off leaves, leaving just two or three.
• Store the pup in a cool, dry place away from the sun.
• Wait until the cut end heals and hardens, usually a few days.
• Plant the pup, cut end down, in a small pot.
• Use a potting mix that is half soil and half sand.
• Place the pot in bright but indirect sunlight and keep the soil slightly moist.
• Be patient! New leaves and roots can take a few months to form.

Sago palms could be an ideal gift for a budding gardener. They’re easy to maintain and they add a distinct note of casual elegance to any living room or sunroom.

Just remember that these palms grow slowly — being around for 200 million years must foster a lot of long-term thinking — so don’t expect a lot of dramatic development from your plant, regardless of whether it’s growing indoors or outdoors. But if you’re patient, your sago palm won’t ask much from you in return. Set it up, water it every so often, and you’ll have a steady plant companion for many years to come.

Key questions to consider

Before you start to think about the size of your deck, there are several other parts of the project to consider. These can substantially affect your options, including the size of the deck. These questions include:

Budget: The straightforward and necessary starting point. If your Plan A option is unrealistic — or if you can afford more deck than you think — better to know that and set expectations accordingly before you get too far down the road.

Purpose: What do you want to do on or with your deck? What do you want it to look like? What do you value most: Attractiveness, durability, functionality, or a combination?

DIY versus contractor: If you’re comfortable with it, building a deck yourself can save you boatloads of money and help ensure you get exactly what you want. Small DIY deck kits are available for as little as a few hundred dollars. On the flip side, hiring a team of professionals who will stand behind their work can offer expertise and peace of mind. Most will be happy to work with you on your specifications and within your budget, and can usually offer financing options. (Just be sure to shop around for a reputable contractor you’re comfortable with.)

Materials: Lots of natural and synthetic products are available to give you the look and functionality you want. But if you want to spend a little more on building materials, you may have to compromise on size, and vice versa.

For example, hardwoods like redwood, cedar, or ipe tend to be on the expensive side, but are also among the most durable and beautiful (however, definitely check with your local supplier or the Forest Stewardship Council before you buy to be sure you’re buying wood that was sustainably harvested, rather than from rain forests or another environmentally sensitive area). Pine, PVC, and composite materials made from wood and plastic resin tend to be more budget-friendly.

Calculating the right size

Once the above parameters are set, it’s time to consider the size of your deck project. As with the other aspects of the process, sizing will depend on many factors, including your own personal preferences, which can’t always be captured by an algorithm or pre-made template.

With that said, there are some basic rules to follow, and quite a few online tools to help you understand your options and create a general sizing plan. One of the most well-known of these tools is the Lowe’s Deck Designer.

Here are a few other ideas to consider when looking for your deck’s deal.

The Golden Rule

Experts tend to recommend a deck size that is no more than 20 percent of your property’s square footage. Any larger than that and you run the risk of the deck taking over too much of your yard or property.

But again, this is a personal call to make. If you’re looking to create a large outdoor kitchen or a large space for entertaining, a larger size may make sense.

Know the rules

Local governments, homeowner associations, and other groups have rules governing decks construction, including what sizes are allowed. Understand the rules and regulations and get your ducks in a row before you start to plan, especially if you plan to build it yourself.

What’s the best deck size for entertaining?

Ready for the broken record? This depends on what kind of entertaining you hope to do. Will it be dinner for four, or a pool party for 40?

Often, a small grilling and seating area is sufficient to entertain. Experts recommend a deck size of about 150 square feet for as many as six people. For 10 to 12 people, that size increases to about 300 square feet.

There also are questions you can ask to help you narrow down your options, including:

• Will you need a kitchen area?
• What are your seating needs?
• Are you interested in a multi-level construction?

Existing structures, or those that you might install along with the deck, also can make a big difference. This could include a pool, hot tub, or gazebo, among other things.

Bottom line

Whether you do it yourself or hire a professional, the size of each deck can be guided by several factors. There are plenty of resources available online and in person that can guide you through the decision-making process. At the end of the day, picking the right deck size is a personal decision.

Prepare yourself and your little green buddies for the harsh weather ahead by following these simple steps. Once you have the correct information, you can come up with the strategy that best suits you and your flowering plants. No matter where you live, you can take steps now to make sure your flowers are in top shape once the snow melts.

How cold is too cold for flowers?

There are some general rules of thumb on this question, but before diving into those, it’s important to add the disclaimer that needs and results can vary by plant species and geographic region. What’s best for hot-weather marigolds, for example, may not be what’s best for pansies, which can withstand colder temperatures.

With that in mind, experts generally recommend flowers and other houseplants be brought inside or otherwise protected before the thermometer dips below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. For warmer-weather and tropical plants, that threshold is a bit higher, at around the 50-degree mark.

There’s no question that flowers need protection from frost and freezing temperatures. Many flowering plants won’t survive very long once temperatures dip below freezing and will typically die within a few hours once the mercury hits 28 degrees Fahrenheit.

How do I protect my flowers from cold nights?

The good news about cold weather is you can usually see it coming, meaning you have plenty of time to make adjustments and get protections in place before the first frost. (Even a few hours is enough to make a difference.) Even more good news: effective flower care is relatively easy and inexpensive and requires just a few simple steps. These steps include:

Bring potted plants inside. Simple as that. Find a sunny spot (or some grow lights) for your flowers and care for them as you usually would. This is especially important because potted plants are more susceptible to the cold than those in the ground.

Water your garden. This may seem counterintuitive, but wet soil acts as an insulator for the entire plant.

Water in the afternoon. While the early morning is often viewed as the optimal watering time, the middle of the day is better in cold weather when temperatures are at their warmest — and the chances of freezing are at their lowest.

Use plenty of mulch. Think of it as a blanket for your plants. Mulch traps the ground’s natural heat to help flowering plants stay warm.

Plant native flowers. Native plants are those that grow naturally in your area or climate, and as a result, have developed natural protections against the local weather patterns. This handy guide helps you find native plants, including flowers, that you can add to your garden.

When should I cover my cold flowers?

Perhaps the most crucial step to proper cold-weather flower care is covering your plants. But how you cover them, when you cover them, and what you cover them with is a topic unto itself, and it makes all the difference.

As noted above, it’s important to take precautions once the temperatures approach the 45 to 50-degree range. No matter what you use to cover your plants, the goal is the same: trapping warm air before it can evaporate into the chill.

Some of the best options for covering your flowering plants include:

Cardboard boxes: You can protect your flowers simply by raiding your recycling bin. Cardboard boxes give plants plenty of room and are great for cold nights. Just be sure to remove them in the morning.

Plastic drink jugs: Rinse your jug, cut off the bottom, and carefully place it over your flowering plants. It’s another no-cost option that provides terrific flower care.

Pots and other plant containers: Simply flip them over to cover the plants. Easy-peasy. Plastic plant containers work well in addition to the hardier terracotta, but avoid covering plants with plastic grocery bags, as they can damage flowers.

Plastic sheeting: This is readily available from any garden or home improvement store. Simply buy and drape over your flowers for heat-trapping protection.

Actual sheeting: Surprised? It turns out your bedding can keep plants warm, too. Find an old bed sheet or blanket and gently drape it over your plants. Be careful not to pick linens that are so heavy they might damage the flowers underneath.

It doesn’t need to be overly expensive, time-consuming, or labor-intensive to protect your flowering plants from plummeting temps. A little forethought and preparation can go a long way.

This goes not just for protection, but for what you include in your garden in the first place. Pay attention to the climate and weather conditions where you live and which plants are best suited to live alongside you. No matter your taste in flowers, however, there are straightforward steps you can take to make sure they survive the cold and live to shine in the sun again in a few months.