With a wide variety of rocks out there, you can build entire rock gardens (such as a serene zen garden), using stones to create focal points and provide accents. While you can place statement, stand-alone rocks, piles or blocks of stones can also be functional for walls, pathways, and seats in your garden. 

If you’re curious about incorporating rockery into your garden, we’ve put together a guide on the most common landscaping stones, breaking down what you need to consider with each type.

How do you pick the right rocks for your rock landscaping project?

To get started on your rock landscape, check out what’s available at your local quarries, rock yards, and home improvement stores — you’ll save on transportation and other costs this way. But also keep in mind what project you’re pursuing instead of simply buying what’s available. It makes sense to prioritize boulders for water features and flagstones for pathways. It may be helpful to work with a contractor or designer to bring your vision to life.

To help you get a feel for the different kinds of rocks out there, here are basic types of rocks for landscaping that you should know about. 

Pea gravel

Pea gravel is a tiny stone (usually between 1/8 and 1/4 of an inch big) that’s ideal for filling in driveways, patios, fire pits, and more. It’s also great for filling spaces between larger landscaping rocks, such as boulders and flagstones. Functionally, it’s also the perfect answer for controlling weeds and providing drainage, which could be great for a drought-tolerant garden.

Unlike mulch, it won’t break down over time. While it won’t provide nutrients to your soil, it’ll last for a long time. Keep in mind that it can be rough and bumpy to walk on and harsh weather can displace it.

Flagstone rocks

From sandstone to quartzite, flagstone rocks are smooth and flat, which makes them versatile for creating paths in high-traffic areas. You might also find them as stepping stones or edging around garden beds. Made up of fragmented sedimentary rocks, they can come in a wide variety of colors.

When it comes to maintenance, they’re fairly easy to clean, as their large surface area makes them easy to sweep or rake through. Bear in mind that they can be pricey since they’re so big (about 1 to 2 feet wide). Some weather patterns may impact Flagstone rocks, in that they get very hot during the summer and very slippery during bouts of rain. 

River rocks

Found near freshwater sources, river rocks feature a naturally smooth and polished appearance. They’re actually pretty similar to pea gravel stones, except they feature softer edges and are usually much bigger. About 1 to 2 inches in diameter, they can be used to fill in patios, but they can also work for accenting garden flowerbeds and succulent plant arrangements.

And, of course, they look great with water features, perfect for a basin around a fountain. River rocks do tend to be pricier than pea gravel and might be a bit dangerous as a walking surface.

Boulders

Adding a weathered texture, boulders are perfect for focal points in a garden. You can use them to line a walkway or section off certain areas of your landscape. They can also work perfectly beneath a tree or by a garden bed — don’t be afraid to get creative!

When it comes to functionality, boulders can also be quite useful for building retaining walls and benches in a landscape. Do keep in mind that they’re very heavy, so you’ll likely have to hire help to place them in your outdoor space.  

Lava rocks

Jagged and porous, lava rocks, or volcanic rocks, are great for mulching your soil. Small in size, they help your soil keep its moisture, provide weed control, and offer drainage. They can be gray, black, or red in color, so they also create a visual contrast in your space. One thing to keep in mind is that lava rocks do tend to be very light, so harsh weather can scatter them around.

Marble chips

If you’re looking for a bit of shimmer and luxury, marble chips are probably one of the fanciest rocks you can incorporate into your landscape. When light hits these white rocks, they give off a luminous appearance. Like gravel, you can use them for filling walkways and garden beds.

When using them in your garden, it’s important to keep in mind that they can make the surrounding soil more alkaline, which can be good for some plants (like hydrangeas) but bad for others (like magnolias). 

Cobblestones

Often used for walkways and driveways, cobblestones have a bit of a classic charm to them. They typically come from granite from riverbeds and are cut into rectangles or other shapes. However, you might find them in their round state at a rockery. Besides being used for entire paths, they also work well for walls and plant beds. Do keep in mind that cobblestone can be uneven as a landscaping rock, which makes removing snow and walking long distances difficult.

Building a rock garden can be a neat, low-maintenance alternative to keeping a lawn. With so many stones available out there, you can find just the right textures, colors, and sizes for your stonescape vision. From simple pea gravel to statement boulders, you’ll be able to create a stunning, easy-care space with a little bit of planning and manual labor. 

This diverse aroid genus actually contains about 50 different species, so you can definitely collect a wide variety of Monstera houseplants for green tropical vibes year-round. To introduce you to the gorgeous world of Monstera plants, we’ve rounded up some of the most sought-after cultivars below.

Monstera deliciosa

If you’re just getting into houseplants, one of the most ubiquitous plants you’ll come across is the Monstera deliciosa. Often mistaken for a philodendron, this lush plant features large, heart-shaped leaves with holes, or fenestrations.

Native to Central America, this plant has a tendency to grow quite large and all over the place if you don’t pin down its aerial roots. That’s why it’s a good idea to tie it to a moss pole stake. Other than its eventual need for a stake, it’s a pretty easygoing plant. You can even allow its soil to dry out before giving it a good soak.

To keep its growth ongoing and its leaves healthy, fertilize your Monstera deliciosa every other week during the growing season. Also, make sure to give your plant plenty of bright indirect light for full leaves!

Monstera Peru

Imagine a lush pothos plant with thick, scaly leaves, and you’ll get something like the Monstera Peru (Monstera karstenianum). As its name suggests, it comes from tropical Peru. The dark green leaves, which measure about 9 centimeters long, feature a prominently ridged texture and don’t have any fenestrations.

Again, you can give this plant a moss pole (or even a wooden plank) to climb, or else it will trail. This Monstera thrives in airy, well-draining soil, so mix perlite and bark into your growing medium. Because the leaves are somewhat succulent, you can let the soil dry out in between waterings. Bright indirect light and monthly applications of a balanced fertilizer will keep your plant happy.

Monstera adansonii

The Monstera adansonii, or Swiss cheese plant, features pointed green leaves with prominent fenestrations. It tends to grow quite prolifically and trails as it grows, so it makes for a beautiful hanging basket plant. This fast grower, which comes from South America, benefits from bright, indirect light and a biweekly application of a balanced fertilizer.

You can let your plant dry out before soaking it thoroughly. The thin, lacy leaves also appreciate extra humidity, so turn on a humidifier or leave your plant on a tray filled with pebbles and water.

Monstera dubia

Originating from Central America and South America, the Monstera dubia can often be mistaken for a Scindapsus with the silvery sheen on its green, heart-shaped leaves. Sometimes called the shingle plant, it has a tendency to climb if you keep it on a plank or moss pole. While rarer than many other Monsteras, you’ll likely be able to track down a Monstera dubia online.

Bright indirect light is best for this plant, as it can easily get scorched. It appreciates loose, loamy soil and you should water it when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry to the touch. This is another Monstera that appreciates the extra humidity, so leaving on the humidifier won’t hurt!

Monstera Thai Constellation

Avid plant collectors may have their eyes on this rare foliage beauty, which can easily sell for hundreds of dollars for a full plant. It looks exactly like a Monstera deliciosa, except it features creamy flecks across its fenestrated leaves. As its name suggests, the Thai Constellation was developed at a tissue culture lab in Thailand. This plant can be a bit fussy, so pay close attention to its needs.

Keep your plant by bright indirect light so the green parts of the leaves can photosynthesize, but don’t expose it to so much bright direct light that it burns. Water your plant only when the soil feels dry on top, and make sure it has well-draining soil. The most important thing is to pay attention to the humidity level — it prefers a 60% to 80% humidity level, so a humidifier is your best bet for preventing crispy, curled leaves.

Monstera obliqua

If you love the look of a Monstera adansonii but want to try a more challenging plant, the rare Monstera obliqua may be right up your alley. It features extra large fenestrations, so much so that it may sometimes appear to be more hole than leaf.

While Monstera plant care is generally easy, Monstera obliquas are notoriously difficult to maintain, even if you’re an experienced grower. Constant humidity is a must, and you may even want to keep your plant in an indoor greenhouse cabinet. Room temperature is OK for this plant, but you want to be careful with light, as too much shade will lead to wilting leaves and too much direct light will burn them. During the growing season, give your plant a gentle, slow-release organic fertilizer.

With all the different Monstera plants out there, you can definitely find one that matches your specific taste. Keep it simple with a Monstera deliciosa, or go for a more textured look with a Monstera Peru. If you’re a seasoned houseplant lover, you may even want to try your hand at a Monstera obliqua or the Thai Constellation. Whichever plant you go for, it’s bound to grow monstrously with dedicated care and perhaps a bit of extra humidity. 

Plant them with red and yellow flowers to create a fiery gradient, or mix them with blue flowers for a lively arrangement. Whether it’s creating a border of marigolds or hanging a charming goldfish plant inside, you have a wide range of options when it comes to incorporating orange into your space. For ideas on which plants to use, here are some of the most striking orange garden plants out there.

Marigolds (Tagetes erecta)

Reminiscent of carnations, these crepey orange flowers native to Mexico will add a pop to any yard. Besides their cheerful color, marigolds also draw beneficial ladybugs and bees into your garden. On top of all that, they’re pretty easy to maintain, as they tolerate heat, drought, and transplanting quite well.

In most cases, they are annuals, but they self-sow so you can enjoy them for a long time down the line. Deadheading isn’t necessary, but it does help blooms continue to grow throughout the summer.

Butterfly weeds (Asclepias tuberosa)

Butterfly weeds are what they’re called because they attract butterflies and produce lots of nectar. Technically milkweeds, these flowers feature glossy green leaves and bloom clusters that can be orange or yellow. They grow well in most places, perennial to zones 3 through 9.

These bushy, low-maintenance plants prefer 6 or more hours of full sun a day and can grow in containers, too. Remember to keep them away from pets and children because butterfly weeds are toxic when consumed.

Daylilies (Hemerocallis fulva)

Available in many colors, including a lovely light or deep orange, daylilies are hardy flowers that thrive in zones 4 through 9. Predominantly from Asia, these flowers can survive rough conditions, including drought and poor soil. They also do well in shade or full sun, although they will produce more flowers in full sun.

You can plant them bareroot into the ground in early spring or pop them inside a container at any point during the growing season. As with many blooms, they attract butterflies — but they don’t attract pests.

Orange spider plant (Chlorophytum amaniense)

Technically a cousin to the spider plant, this striking plant, which also goes by the name of “mandarin plant,” features bright orange stems and petioles along with vibrant green leaves. When you look at it from the base and up, it almost looks like it’s glowing.

Mostly an easygoing plant, it does best in bright indirect light with consistent fertilizing throughout the growing season. Note that it is sensitive to tip burn, which can be caused by direct light or hard water. If you leave it outside (and you can do so in zones 9 through 11), give it shade. On the latter issue, you can water it with filtered water or tap water that’s been left out for a day.

Coppertips (Crocosmia)

Native to South Africa, coppertips feature rows of gorgeous tubular scarlet orange blooms on their branches. They only need adequate watering and well-draining soil; their main requirement is bright, full sun to produce striking flowers. They have a pretty late start in that you should begin growing them when other flowers are just about to bloom in late spring.

Summer is their time to shine: They enjoy full sun even with the heat and even if it comes with mugginess or drought in hot weather. Best of all, their flowers attract beneficial pollinators such as hummingbirds and butterflies. However, they won’t attract deer or rabbits if your garden is prone to those critters.

Prince of Orange philodendron

The Prince of Orange philodendron is a stunning tropical houseplant that features bright orange leaves that go from yellow to green as they mature. Often, all three colors appear in one plant. This tree philodendron is easy to keep inside the house — it only needs loose, well-draining soil and water when the soil dries out. Bright indirect light will also help it maintain its color scheme.

Those who live in zone 10 or higher can keep the Prince of Orange as an outdoor plant all year round, but it does perfectly well as a houseplant elsewhere. As this is a self-heading variety that only grows up to 2 feet wide, you won’t need to worry about pruning it.

Goldfish plant (Nematanthus gregarious)

Coming from Central and South America, the goldfish plant features striking red-orange blooms that resemble its namesake. Even when not in bloom, its glossy, trailing dark green leaves are a sight to behold and perfect for hanging baskets.

They do well in bright indirect light with well-draining soil. While they enjoy a good soak in the spring and summer, cut back on watering in the wintertime. Though perennial in zones 10 and 11, these tropical houseplants don’t need a lot of warmth — they do best at room temperature and may struggle with too much heat.

Get started on warming up your garden with orange now. There’s no need to maintain a citrus tree — simply bring in an orange flower border or hang an orange plant on your patio. Throughout the year, orange will add a rich, welcoming color to your outdoor landscape.

Designing a drought-tolerant garden is rewarding, but it can be difficult to begin. There’s an upfront cost of time, energy, and money to consider. In addition to new, drought-tolerant plants, you may also need to get mulch, rocks, and tubes for an efficient watering system, and setting everything up can take a lot of time and effort. In the long run, though, your low-maintenance garden will be well worth it. You’ll have a garden that’s friendlier for the environment and your budget!

Ditch your turf for hardscape or mulch

It’s no secret that to keep the grass greener on your side, you need to water it pretty consistently. When putting together a drought-tolerant garden design, consider downsizing your lawn space. It may be more water-efficient to ditch your turf entirely and use rocks or bark mulch. Just keep in mind that you will have to make a significant investment in time and money if you go down this route.

Look for native plants in your area

Native plants are plants that have adapted to your region’s rainfall, soil, and sunlight conditions, so there’s little that you have to do to care for them when they’re outside. While extra watering and fertilizing can be helpful, these measures aren’t usually necessary. Native plants are great because they help you cut down on your water bill while providing shelter and food for local wildlife and pollinators. More often than not, your local garden centers will have a good selection of plants that are native and perennial to your area.

Grow succulents and cacti

Succulents and cacti are notoriously hardy plants since they store water inside their fleshy stems and leaves. That means that even if you miss a watering day or two, they’ll still be able to carry on — overwatering them can lead to root rot. While many thrive in warm, arid conditions, some succulents and cacti can tolerate frost. If you live in an area prone to colder winters, it’s worth looking at hard succulents such as hens and chicks — these have thicker leaves and may be able to handle the cold better.

If you live in a warmer region, look into soft succulents such as echeverias, which will do better without frost conditions. In addition to succulents and cacti, don’t forget to consider other drought-tolerant plants and flowers.

Implement efficient watering methods

If you live somewhere that’s going through an actual drought, you might want to implement efficient watering methods throughout your yard. First things first: When you do water, water deeply so that you don’t have to whip out your hose as often — it helps if you have mulch for water retention, too. You can supplement hose watering with a drip irrigation setup that directly waters your roots and prevents waste. Plus, collect other sources for watering your plants, such as rainwater and gray water.

Properly prepare your soil

On the one hand, you don’t want to leave your plants in soil that retains too much water, as this can cause your plants to get root rot. On the other hand, soil that’s too well-draining may mean that you need to water your plants more. In a drought-tolerant garden, mix all-purpose garden soil with cactus soil so your plants get the water and nutrients they need to thrive. For extra nutrients and water retention, you could also mix in compost.

Use less fertilizer

If you’re growing native plants, you don’t have to use fertilizer as much since these plants have already adapted to your conditions without the need for enriched soil. Fertilizers, while they help your plants grow, need to be watered down, or else they may draw water from your plants and cause long-term damage. You don’t want to overfertilize when you’re not watering your plants because the salts in fertilizer can burn your plant from drought stress.

Start small when it comes to putting together a drought-tolerant garden, whether it’s harvesting rainwater or buying a few native plants to furnish your patio. But if you want to swing big and pull up your turf to place down hardscaping, your efforts will be rewarding, too. Your initial investment of time and money will pay off as you lower your water bill, cut back on waste, and provide a lush space for local wildlife and pollinators.

There are also cold-hardy plants that can grow and even thrive in zone 2’s cold weather. If you reside in climate zone 2, here’s what you need to know about what you can grow there and how to do it.

Where is climate zone 2?

Before we talk about zone 2, let’s go over what a climate zone is. The United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) has divided the country into 13 regions based on average minimum temperature ranges with the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map. Zone 1 has the lowest minimum temperature range, while zone 13 features the highest. A plant label will often indicate a zone interval where a plant is perennial, which means it lasts multiple growing seasons there.

Zone 2, as you may have already guessed, is extremely cold, featuring harsh freezes. It consists mostly of Alaska but also parts of the continental U.S., such as Wyoming and Minnesota. The average minimum temperature in zone 2 ranges between 50 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit below 0 in the winter. These numbers are challenging for plants, suffice to say — even cold-hardy varieties may not survive such harsh freezes.

This area also faces drought and extreme winds in its tundras and plains. In addition to starting plants indoors and giving them frost blankets, row covers, greenhouses, and mulch, gardeners can raise annuals in this region. At the end of the growing season, these plants will inevitably go back to seed.

Flowers and foliage for climate zone 2

It can be a struggle to grow flowers in zone 2, but it’s not altogether impossible to add color to your garden here. For lovely flowers, you’ll have beautiful, vibrant options. The lead plant, for example, is a small, shrubby wildflower with fragrant, feathery leaves and delicate purple blooms.

For a showy flower that attracts pollinators such as bees and butterflies, consider the Iceland poppy. It can flaunt red, orange, yellow, and pink petals upon leafless stems, and it does best directly sown into the ground. Primrose can also be a lovely addition to a garden bed or border. Its small but hardy blooms come in a wide variety of hues — you can start it indoors until temperatures are warm enough to bring it out.

Fruits to grow in climate zone 2

Fruits that can tolerate zone 2 conditions predominantly include cold-hardy plants like apples and plums. Look for zone 2-appropriate varieties, such as the Fall Red apple and Brookgold plum when you’re tree shopping. Local nurseries will likely carry the right types for your area, so don’t hesitate to ask your local garden center retailer for tips.

Another fruit that’s a zone 2 staple is serviceberry, a resilient shrub that yields lovely blooms, bright red fall foliage and delicious fruit. The fruits are similar in color and size to blueberries, except they taste a little sweeter. American cranberry bushes can thrive in zone 2 as well. Whichever trees you end up choosing, plant them in an area where they’ll receive the most sunlight.

When to start seeds in climate zone 2

There’s no getting around the fact that zone 2 has a notoriously limited growing season. Its first frost starts around mid-August, while its last frost breaks around mid-May. Given this timeline, most gardeners in zone 2 will start seeds in May or June, although some tender leafy greens can be started even earlier. Just keep in mind that even without frost, temperatures remain relatively low in zone 2, so you won’t be growing tropical and citrus fruits any time soon.

But as a gardener in zone 2, you do have choices in terms of what you can plant. Consider growing cold-hardy veggies such as carrots, onions, parsnips, and mustard greens. Inevitably, most plants will be kept as annuals in this region, but you can always collect seeds for your next growing season. Asparagus can, however, be perennial if you properly mulch and protect it.

There’s no doubt that climate zone 2 is a tough place to grow plants with its cold temperatures and harsh winds. With that said, developing a colorful and lush garden isn’t out of reach if you’re diligent about overwintering your plants and keeping them warm and upright. While you may have to grow annuals and enact protective measures throughout the year, you really can foster a beautiful garden with striking poppies, hardy plum trees, and delicious carrots and onions at the height of the growing season.

The most common variety is the money plant, or Crassula ovata, but there are actually roughly 300 species of Crassula plants, including many cultivars of Crassula ovata. Whether you’re growing your jade plants indoors or outdoors, it’s helpful to get a feel of what varieties are out there to build your collection to your liking. To help you find just the right jade plant types for your home, we’ve rounded up the most striking kinds available.

Lucky jade plant (Crassula ovata)

Native to South Africa, the lucky jade plant, or the money plant, is probably what most people are thinking of when they think of the jade plant. Simple but stunning, this ubiquitous succulent resembles a miniature bush or tree with its fleshy, egg-shaped leaves that grow from trunks and branches. The water-storing leaves are typically a jade green color, but they may sometimes feature tinged red edges. This jade plant can grow up to 6 feet tall in its natural habitat, but you can easily keep it compact by pruning it — it’s actually quite a common plant for those who enjoy cultivating bonsai.

When grown outdoors, lucky jade plants should receive some shade to avoid leaf scorch. Indoors, you may want to invest in grow lights to give them an extra boost. You should water your plant when it dries out, but it’s not necessary to feed it more than once a growing season.

Variegated jade plant (Crassula ovata ‘Tricolor’)

The variegated jade plant is quite similar to your basic jade plant, but it features creamy white and green leaves with red edges. (And, for what it’s worth, its leaves also have a more spoon-like shape.) Bright sun is ideal for this jade plant, as it helps it maintain variegation and produce clusters of dense white blooms. As long as you give it a well-draining soil mix and don’t overwater it, the variegated jade plant is a pretty quick grower. It doesn’t need much fertilizing, but you can give it a boost with plant food around mid-spring.

Curly jade plant (Crassula ovata ‘Undulata’)

Similar in form to the common Crassula ovata, the curly jade plant features wavy blue-green leaves with thin red edges. Around spring and summer, it may produce small white and pink flowers if you leave it outside. You want some direct light for healthy leaves, or else your growth may look leggy and uneven. Throughout the growing season, give it a once-a-month feeding with a weak liquid fertilizer solution.

Gollum jade plant (Crassula ovata ‘Gollum’)

The Gollum jade plant is a shrubby succulent with thin, tube-like leaves with reddish tips — it may also have variegated cream leaves as well. In the hottest conditions, this jade plant appreciates afternoon shade, although it naturally prefers full sun.

It does best in gritty, well-draining soil, and you only need to water it when its soil dries out completely. The Gollum jade plant doesn’t need a lot of fertilizer. One spring feeding of a weak liquid fertilizer should be sufficient, but you can apply more fertilizer during the summer if you notice its growth lagging.

Hummel’s sunset golden jade plant (Crassula ovata ‘Hummel’s Sunset’)

What distinguishes this from a common jade plant is its striking foliage color, which, as its name implies, resembles a sunset. Its leaves can be green, but they’re usually a gold and reddish color, which deepens during the colder months (and which, for the record, is not root rot).

Full sun helps it maintain its color, although it can handle partial shade as well. As it gets older, its branches turn thicker and woodier. During the fall and winter, this jade may also yield starry white blooms. In the colder months, make sure to protect your golden jade plant from hard frosts.

Silver dollar jade plant (Crassula arborescens)

The stunning silver dollar jade plant features circular, silvery blue leaves that sometimes have a reddish tinge on the edges. It tends to grow slower than your typical lucky jade plant, which can make it a more manageable pick. If you keep your plant outside, it may produce pink and white star-shaped flowers with enough light. Though an easy grower, the silver dollar jade plant can attract unwanted mealybugs and fungal diseases. You want to inspect your plant often and apply pest or fungal treatments as needed.

The main difference between Crassula ovata and Crassula arborescens is that the latter tends to have bigger leaves. Still, the Crassula arborescens is often considered a jade plant in the gardening community.

While you may have one idea of what a jade plant looks like, there are actually quite a few jade plant varieties out there. With these striking jade plants in mind, you can create a low-maintenance outdoor garden or round out your indoor succulent collection. A combination of bright light, warm temperatures, and gritty soil keeps jade plants happy for years down the line.

Vietnamese coriander (rau ram)

Vietnamese coriander, or rau ram, features inky, flat leaves that tend to grow quite quickly. It features a stronger taste than cilantro, flavoring foods like rice rolls, soups, and noodles with its lemony and peppery notes. With Vietnamese coriander, a single plant can go a long way, as it’s a perennial with an aggressive growing habit.

It’s partial to warm climates in indirect bright light conditions and tends to be a thirsty plant. Besides keeping its soil consistently moist, you want to cut it back regularly to keep it healthy and vigorous. Home gardeners usually start it from cuttings as opposed to seeds. 

Epazote

Give your savory dishes a pungent and earthy kick with epazote. This soft, slender Central American herb is perfect for lending intricate flavor to soups, moles, and quesadillas. Its unique flavor profile can taste like a combination of anise, oregano, and mint, among other notes; suffice to say, a little can go a long way.

Be careful around the seeds and oil, as they’re toxic in large doses. Hardy in zones 6 to 11, epazote is a drought-resistant plant that’s relatively easy to grow as long as you don’t drown its roots and you give it full sun — use grow lights if necessary. It’s commonly started from seed. 

Shiso

Also known as perilla or Japanese basil, shiso is as beautiful as it is tasty. Commonly used in noodles, fillings, and pickles, this nutrient-packed herb features frilly leaves that are generally red or green. Part of the mint family, it features a flavor reminiscent of mint, basil, anise, nuts, and licorice.

Often grown from seed around the time of the last frost, shiso is partial to warm, humid growing conditions. In hot conditions, it appreciates partial afternoon shade, but can generally tolerate full sun — in fact, it’s an annual in zones 2 through 9, but can survive as a perennial in zones 10 and 11. Like other herbs in the mint family, it can spread quickly, so cut it back to keep its growth in check. 

Lemongrass

A go-to in Southeast Asian cooking, lemongrass features an earthy citrus flavor that goes well in stir-fries, marinades, noodles, and soups. While it can live happily in a large container, this tall, stalky tropical herb can thrive in the ground after the last frost in zones 10 and 11 — just as you’d expect from grass or ground cover.

It does best in warm, humid, bright environments. You want to keep the soil relatively moist but never soggy, as overwatering a lemongrass plant can drown its sensitive rhizomes. Be careful when handling lemongrass because its blades have serrated edges. You can propagate lemongrass from the grocery store, but you can also grow it from seeds. 

Chocolate mint 

While you could grow peppermint or spearmint, why not grow chocolate mint for an herb that’s more outside the box? Although it has a chocolate aroma, its taste leans more citrusy and minty, making it a great addition to cocktails and baked goods.

A healthy contender for an indoor plant, chocolate mint thrives in partial shade and moderately moist soil, with little need for extra plant food beyond one feeding of balanced fertilizer per growing season. Given basic care requirements, it can grow prolifically, so prune it back when it reaches 5 inches tall. Since it’s a sterile hybrid, you want to start chocolate mint from cuttings or divided plants rather than seeds. 

Lemon verbena 

Whether you add it to teas, cocktails, marinades, or desserts, lemon verbena can add a refreshing, citrusy taste to your recipes. Though perennial in warm areas, you can keep a healthy lemon verbena plant indoors. Hardy to zones 8 to 11, lemon verbena appreciates loose, well-draining soil and doesn’t need to be watered often, especially if you keep it indoors. To maintain healthy leaves, you might want to invest in grow lights because lemon verbena needs full sun. This herb starts out best as seedlings or divided plants, as growing lemon verbena from seeds can be tricky. 

Winter savory 

Similar in appearance to thyme, winter savory features a peppery, earthy flavor that pairs well with foods like soups, stews, and beans — its dried leaves are sometimes even added to potpourri. Hardy in zones 6 to 9, it’s a relatively low-maintenance herb that you can propagate by seed or stem cuttings. It prefers to be under full sun in sandy, well-draining soil. If you’re growing winter savory, it’s a good idea to prune it back regularly to keep it from getting weak and leggy. 

While you can certainly enjoy a kitchen herb garden full of staples, such as basil, cilantro, and parsley, consider adding the plants above to bring your recipes up a notch. With herbs, such as shiso and chocolate mint, you can challenge yourself to be more adventurous in the kitchen and embed unique flavors into your cooking. And luckily, most of these herbs are just as easy to care for as most common herbs.