What is espaliering?

Espaliering is an agricultural technique that dates back at least as far as the Roman Empire, although there is evidence to suggest it may have originated even earlier, in Egypt. It is the art of training a tree or other woody plant to grow against a wall, fence, or trellis. The branches are shaped into patterns, creating a living work of art.

Not only does this process lead to beautiful garden additions, it also has two practical uses. Espaliering conserves space by growing trees against structures. This allows them to be grown in more narrow spaces than is typical.

It also extends the growing season. If the surface the tree is grown against is stone or brick, it will absorb heat from the sun, keeping the tree warm even in cold weather. The structure also provides shelter from wind and snow.

Picking the right tree for espaliering

Choose a tree that is native to your region or otherwise well-suited to your region. This makes caring for your tree much easier. For example, if you live in a wet climate, don’t choose a desert tree. Espalier projects can take a lot of time and energy, so cutting down on the amount of time you need to spend caring for your plant’s basic needs is helpful.

Along the same vein, choose a tree you’ve grown before. Being more familiar with the type of plant you’re growing will cut down on the time you spend learning about what it prefers. It can also be a much-needed confidence boost! When learning a new skill, it’s easy to become frustrated or disheartened. Using a tree species you’re familiar with gives you a firm foundation: you’ve grown this tree before, and you can do it again!

Stick to smaller or more slender trees and shrubs. A large part of espaliering is pruning and shaping the branches. Slender trees are more flexible, making the branches easier to shape, and thicker trees are more difficult to cut back. If you don’t have the time to dedicate to a full tree or shrub, consider using vines instead.

Choose a young sapling of your preferred species. The ideal tree is healthy, has few branches, and has a singular trunk.

Some of the most popular plants to use are:

• Apple
• Pear
• Forsythia
• Redbud
• Jasmine

Getting set up for espaliering

Choose or design your pattern

Beginners may want to choose a traditional pattern, such as a cordon pattern, fan pattern, or Belgian fence. Traditional patterns have decades of detailed instructions and advice to guide you, which removes some of the guesswork and worry. However, if you’re feeling ambitious, you can design your own espalier pattern. Sketch your design out, and take note of which branches will grow and need to be shaped first.

Build or buy your support frame

You can build your own out of wood or wire. You need evenly spaced lines of wood or wire running horizontally. Make sure your frame is large enough for your complete pattern. Once your frame is finished, mount it where you want your pattern to be. You can attach it to posts for a free-standing espalier.

Plant your tree

Plant your tree 5 to 10 inches from the base of the wall or frame. This allows air to flow between the tree and the surface, and prevents abrasions from the surface as the tree grows. Add compost or fertilizer to the soil while planting, and don’t forget to water it!

Shaping and maintaining the pattern

Remove any branches growing on the side facing the frame or directly across from it, leaving the branches that are growing parallel to the frame. Cut the top of the sapling off a couple of inches above where you want the first set of branches to grow. This stimulates horizontal growth.

To train the branches, bend them gently but firmly into position and tie them loosely to the frame. Don’t tie it so tightly that the tie cuts into the branch, but it should be tight enough to hold the branch in position. Once a month or every other month, check the ties for any that have become too tight or too loose. Prune any branches that don’t fit the pattern at this time as well.

Continue caring for your tree and pruning it regularly, and in 1 to 3 years you’ll have a completed design! Whether you plan on using a traditional design or have a more ambitious goal in mind, patience and persistence will carry you to success. Since they take up much less space, you can grow your own mini-orchard in your own backyard!

Typically, Japanese maples grow to about 15 to 20 feet tall, and their canopies reach out to about the same length. However, there are dwarf versions of these trees that are some of the best options for smaller gardens. They have bright, hand-shaped leaves that appear in the summer in a beautiful green color but then turn red, purple, or yellow in the fall.

If you’re looking to plant one of these beauties, just be aware first that they’re not fast growers. Japanese maples aren’t so slow that you won’t notice a change from year to year, but if you need something to grow up quickly to hide that electric meter, you may want to choose a different plant. They vary broadly in terms of size, colors, and shapes, making them ideal choices for landscaping and a fan favorite among gardeners across the United States.

Why you should prune a Japanese maple tree

There actually is no real reason you should ever need to prune a Japanese maple for health reasons. These trees are healthy and grow in a unique way that’s just a part of their charm. However, when growing them for landscaping purposes, sometimes it’s necessary to prune a plant to keep it in the shape you want, protect the plant, cut off dead or diseased limbs, or protect the plants around it. For example, the broad canopy of the tree might put your sun-loving flowers in the shade for too long and inhibit their growth. Other than that, a Japanese maple doesn’t really need to be pruned to promote happy and healthy development. 

When to prune a Japanese maple 

When you start thinking about pruning the plants in your garden, it’s vital to their health that you do your research and find out what time of year is best for that specific plant. If you’re just going to be snipping off a few branches of your Japanese maple, you can do that any time of year without affecting the health of the tree. However, if you plan to prune a lot of branches to change the shape or size of the tree, you’ll want to do that in the winter. Other than that, the old gardener saying “Prune when the shears are sharp” rings true here, too. As long as you have clean and high-quality tools, you can lightly prune your tree any time of year. 

How to prune a Japanese maple tree

The most important part of pruning your Japanese maple is what you use the cut it. To ensure the plant doesn’t get sick, only use disinfected and sharp pruning shears. A sharp tool makes a clean cut and makes the process easier for you and the tree!

When you go to cut the limb or branch, you’ll want to cut close to the trunk, but not flush to the bark. Not much of the cut-off branch should be left on the plant, but you should be able to see a small stump where it once was. If the limb is too thick for pruning shears, you can use a small handsaw instead. Again, you’ll want to be sure your saw (or whatever tool you use) is clean, disinfected, and sharp enough to make a clean cut. A jagged cut does more harm to the tree and leaves an eyesore behind. 

If you have a lot of pruning to do, it might need to take a year or two to do it. Don’t cut off a large portion of the tree at once. This can send the plant into shock and kill it. Instead, cut a few branches one year, then wait until the next year or the year after that to cut the rest of the branches. This gives the plant plenty of time to recover from the first pruning and easily handle another pruning the following year. 

So if you were nervous about pruning your prized Japanese maple or hesitant to plant one because you thought it needed a lot of maintenance, rest assured that these lovely trees are generally easy-to-grow, low-maintenance plants. The Japanese maple rewards you with stunning color, distinct growth patterns, and the perfect centerpiece for your landscape design, and it will continue to beautify your outdoor space for many years to come.

Choosing where to plant cherry trees

Choose an area that gets consistent sun to ensure healthy growth and regular production. The area should have well-draining soil, and it should be soft and moist at the time of planting. The best times to plant are spring and fall when the weather is mild. The ground is often harder during winter, when it may be frozen, and in some climates during the summer, when exposed ground may be partially baked.

Cherry trees often have deep root systems, so take care to avoid areas with shallow soil or rock beds below the surface. Some cherry varieties will self-pollinate, while others will not, so you may need multiple trees. Cherry trees will need to be planted 20 to 40 feet apart, depending on variety, so make sure you have plenty of space for all your trees.

When planting, make sure the hole you’re putting the tree into is deep enough. You want a hole that is as deep as the root ball and twice as wide. Fill the hole in carefully, so that the tree is standing straight up. Don’t forget to water it and give it a nice layer of mulch!

Once it’s planted, you can expect your first harvest about three to four years after planting. After it has bloomed, when it begins to produce fruit, be sure to cover it with garden netting. Otherwise you can expect birds to make off with your harvest.

Cherry tree varieties

Before discussing individual varieties, it’s important to talk about the major categories. There are sweet cherries, which can be eaten on their own, and are often used to top desserts or as ingredients. Sour cherries, on the other hand, are typically not eaten on their own, and are almost always used for jams, jellies, preserves, and pies. Sour cherry trees are also generally smaller, meaning they take up less space, and are self-pollinating.

There are also full sized versus dwarf varieties. Dwarf varieties are smaller, as the name suggests, taking up much less room than other varieties and bearing less fruit. However, dwarf varieties also typically produce fruit faster, in about three years rather than four.

There are a lot of individual varieties for sweet and sour cherries, and it’s a good idea to buy a few cherries from several varieties before purchasing a full tree so you’re sure to get what you want. You also might consider taking a look at your local farmers market and speaking to anyone in your area who grows cherries. They may have special insight into what varieties work best with your soil and climate.

In the U.S., the most common sweet cherry variety is the Bing cherry, while Europe prefers the Kordia cherry. These cherries have a lovely dark color and are sweet and juicy. For sour cherries, the favorite is far and away the Montmorency cherry. They’re bright red, smaller, and go great in pies.

Special concerns about cherry trees

Cherry trees are susceptible to some common diseases, although different varieties may have varying levels of resistance to them. Arguably the worst of these problems is rot, which can attack the roots and, once it sets in, is incurable. However, rot is easily prevented by making sure the soil drains well. Rot only becomes an issue if the soil stays wet for too long.

For most other diseases, such as black knot fungus, cankers, and blight, the treatment is to prune the infected area to prevent spread. In general, look for any unusual growths on the tree, and prune the infected branches below the growth.

The fruits of the cherry tree are often attractive for insects. While birds can be kept at bay with netting, insects typically require a pesticide spray. Be sure to read the instructions carefully, and wash your fruit thoroughly before eating it.

Cherries are fun to eat and add a little something extra to any dessert or fruit platter. Whether you’re serving up sundaes or a sweet fruit cocktail, having your very own cherry tree is a great way to have fresh cherries. Make sure you have plenty of room, and plant your tree or trees somewhere sunny where water doesn’t tend to pool, and you can have fresh cherries in three to four years! See the beautiful blossoms in spring, and then enjoy the literal fruits of your labor!

Since every landscape is unique, there could be a variety of solutions to dealing with excessive sun exposure. Perhaps there is ample space to reduce the sun’s intensity by shading the area with trees or large shrubs. Or maybe the home entrance faces west and needs a few nice foundation plants or an accent flower bed for curb appeal. Regardless of the scenario, this list of afternoon sun plants offers a variety of solutions.

Large shade trees 

If space permits, planting a shade tree can help. Trees that grow tall cast pockets of shade that move across the landscape as the angle of the sun changes through the day. The temporary shade that they provide gives smaller plants a bit of a break from the heat and helps the adjacent soil to retain more moisture. For easy maintenance, choose tree species that won’t drop large fruits, nuts, or flowers, like:

• Celtis occidentalis (Common Hackberry)
• Acer rubrum (Red Maple) 
• Acrocomia aculeata (Macaw Palm)
• Aesculus californica (California buckeye)

Small flowering trees

Flowering trees add ornamental beauty and structural interest to the landscape. Many selections grow best in the understory beneath larger trees and struggle in locations with intense sun and heat. Plants that can tolerate late afternoon sun and reward you with gorgeous bloom displays will be:

• Malus species (Flowering Crabapple)
• Lagerstroemia indica (Crepe Myrtle)
• Prunus x cisterna (Purpleleaf Sand Cherry)
• Magnolia stellate (Star Magnolia)

Evergreen shrubs

If the landscape is a room, then evergreen shrubs are the furniture. Often used to accent entryways, add interest to large wall expanses, or to create living screens, evergreen shrubs are vital to effective landscape design. Of course, not all perform well in intense light and heat.

• Thuja occidentalis (Arborvitae) grows to a pillar shape that is ideal for creating privacy screens or accenting tall entryways and corners.
• Ilex crenata (Japanese Holly) features round, evergreen, boxwood-like leaves and a globe-shaped growth habit that makes an excellent landscape filler or neutral screen to highlight low-growing shrubs or perennials in front. 

Flowering shrubs

Flowering shrubs, whether evergreen or deciduous, add seasonal interest to the landscape with their bloom displays and, in many cases, foliage color. Layer them in foundation plantings among evergreen shrubs, or use them to create accents and focal points throughout the landscape. Choose flowering shrubs that will tolerate the afternoon sun and give multiple ornamental seasons.

• Numerous cultivars of Abelia chinensjis (Abelia) offer green or variegated, evergreen to semi-evergreen foliage and either pink or white flowers in midsummer.
• Itea virginica (Sweetspire) displays white flower panicles in early summer, brilliant burgundy foliage in autumn, and red stems through the winter.

Perennial plants

Perennials are herbaceous plants that grow back from the root year after year. Most are planted for their weeks-long flower displays. Include different species that bloom in spring, summer, and fall, as well as different plant sizes and flower types for a dynamic display that changes throughout the growing season. The best perennial afternoon sun plants are both sun loving and drought tolerant.

• Salvia nemorosa (Meadow Sage) grows low to the ground and produces purple flower spikes in spring.
• Coreopsis auriculata (Tickseed) produces a profusion of golden yellow flowers in late spring to early summer.
• Echinacea purpurea (Purple Coneflower) is a tall midsummer bloomer with pinkish-purple flowers.
• Hylotelephium telephium (Autumn Joy Sedum) is a mid-height succulent that produces pink buds in late summer, followed by red flowers in fall.

Annual flowers

Annual flowers live out their complete life cycle in one growing season. Use them in compact flower beds or container plantings to add intense, consistent color from spring through fall. There are lots of choices of annual plants for afternoon sun.

• Catharanthus roseus (Annual Vinca), is a compact, upright plant with intense flower colors including pink, red, white, and purple.
• Pentas lanceolata (Pentas) grow upright stems with terminal clusters of tiny white, red, or pink star-shaped flowers.
• Portulaca grandiflora (Moss Rose) is a low-spreading succulent plant that produces round one-inch diameter flowers in yellow, red, or orange tones.

Afternoon sun can be tough to manage, but some plants love it. Choose the right plants and you’ll enjoy a beautiful, thriving sunny landscape.

What to consider before planting a dogwood tree

Before you pick up your dogwood, before you dig your hole, before you even choose what kind of dogwood you want, you’ll need to make sure you have a suitable planting location. Dogwoods need partial shade. Although they can tolerate more sun with increased water, full sun can scorch their leaves, leading to a less healthy tree overall. Pick a planting location with a mix of shade and sun, and pay attention to any other plants in the area. Remember that the dogwood tree will cast some shade of its own, so don’t grow it near plants that need full sun.

Make sure the soil in your desired planting spot is rich with organic material but well-draining. Additionally, dogwood trees do best in soil that’s acidic to neutral, so testing your soil’s pH is a good idea. If your soil is lacking in organic material and pH, try adding compost with pine needles or coffee grounds. Compost adds organic material and nutrients into the soil, while pine needles and coffee grounds are easy ways to make the soil more acidic.

On a more personal note, something important to consider is how long dogwood trees live. A dogwood’s lifespan averages out at about 80 years, making this tree a lifetime commitment. Dogwoods don’t need constant care if they’re planted in a good place with adequate rainfall, but the tree will still be where you’ve planted it, taking up that space. Dogwoods have plenty of benefits, such as offering shade, bird food, and lovely flowers. However, if you move often, plan on moving soon, or enjoy rearranging your garden regularly, then you may want to pick a plant with a shorter lifespan.

Choosing your dogwood

The best source for almost any tree is a local nursery or gardening store. Local nurseries can give you more specific advice about local climates, pests, and diseases that may cause problems for you. If there aren’t any small, local nurseries or garden stores, your next best option is any in-person store. That way you can at least see the tree and check its general health for yourself before bringing it home. If online is your only option, look for specialists rather than general stores, and read reviews before ordering a tree.

There are plenty of dogwood varieties, but a few of them are more popular in gardens for their flowers, fruit, or size. Flowering dogwood is the most popular variety in the US. It’s native to the US, and comes in a range of cultivars with different flower colors and sizes. If you live on the west coast, then you may be interested in the pacific dogwood, which is native to deciduous areas along the west coast. If you want something a little more unique, try the kousa dogwood. The kousa dogwood is native to east Asia, and looks fairly similar to the flowering dogwood. However, one key difference is the kousa dogwood’s unusual fruit, which is actually edible.

When to plant your dogwood tree

The best time to plant your dogwood is early spring or late fall. Dogwoods are deciduous, meaning they go dormant during the winter. This makes planting much less stressful for the tree, and a stress-free tree is a healthy tree. If you’re planting a young tree, it’s best to plant it in spring. This is so the tree has time to grow before winter sets in, decreasing your chances of frost damage. If your dogwood is an older, more mature tree, then feel free to plant your tree in fall.

Avoid planting your dogwood during summer or in the middle of the afternoon. These are the times when both heat and sunlight are at their highest. Planting a tree during summer or the afternoon isn’t good for the tree or you. It can lead to overheating and sun damage, so it’s best to plant your dogwood in the morning during either spring or fall.

Using these tips, you can successfully plant your dogwood tree. You could even grow a whole grove of them! Remember that dogwoods need mixed sun and shade, and rich, acidic, well-draining soil. Plant it in the spring or fall, and try to choose a nice mild morning rather than a hot afternoon. Soon enough you’ll be enjoying the plentiful flowers and berries that are the hallmark of dogwoods.