This diverse aroid genus actually contains about 50 different species, so you can definitely collect a wide variety of Monstera houseplants for green tropical vibes year-round. To introduce you to the gorgeous world of Monstera plants, we’ve rounded up some of the most sought-after cultivars below.

Monstera deliciosa

If you’re just getting into houseplants, one of the most ubiquitous plants you’ll come across is the Monstera deliciosa. Often mistaken for a philodendron, this lush plant features large, heart-shaped leaves with holes, or fenestrations.

Native to Central America, this plant has a tendency to grow quite large and all over the place if you don’t pin down its aerial roots. That’s why it’s a good idea to tie it to a moss pole stake. Other than its eventual need for a stake, it’s a pretty easygoing plant. You can even allow its soil to dry out before giving it a good soak.

To keep its growth ongoing and its leaves healthy, fertilize your Monstera deliciosa every other week during the growing season. Also, make sure to give your plant plenty of bright indirect light for full leaves!

Monstera Peru

Imagine a lush pothos plant with thick, scaly leaves, and you’ll get something like the Monstera Peru (Monstera karstenianum). As its name suggests, it comes from tropical Peru. The dark green leaves, which measure about 9 centimeters long, feature a prominently ridged texture and don’t have any fenestrations.

Again, you can give this plant a moss pole (or even a wooden plank) to climb, or else it will trail. This Monstera thrives in airy, well-draining soil, so mix perlite and bark into your growing medium. Because the leaves are somewhat succulent, you can let the soil dry out in between waterings. Bright indirect light and monthly applications of a balanced fertilizer will keep your plant happy.

Monstera adansonii

The Monstera adansonii, or Swiss cheese plant, features pointed green leaves with prominent fenestrations. It tends to grow quite prolifically and trails as it grows, so it makes for a beautiful hanging basket plant. This fast grower, which comes from South America, benefits from bright, indirect light and a biweekly application of a balanced fertilizer.

You can let your plant dry out before soaking it thoroughly. The thin, lacy leaves also appreciate extra humidity, so turn on a humidifier or leave your plant on a tray filled with pebbles and water.

Monstera dubia

Originating from Central America and South America, the Monstera dubia can often be mistaken for a Scindapsus with the silvery sheen on its green, heart-shaped leaves. Sometimes called the shingle plant, it has a tendency to climb if you keep it on a plank or moss pole. While rarer than many other Monsteras, you’ll likely be able to track down a Monstera dubia online.

Bright indirect light is best for this plant, as it can easily get scorched. It appreciates loose, loamy soil and you should water it when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry to the touch. This is another Monstera that appreciates the extra humidity, so leaving on the humidifier won’t hurt!

Monstera Thai Constellation

Avid plant collectors may have their eyes on this rare foliage beauty, which can easily sell for hundreds of dollars for a full plant. It looks exactly like a Monstera deliciosa, except it features creamy flecks across its fenestrated leaves. As its name suggests, the Thai Constellation was developed at a tissue culture lab in Thailand. This plant can be a bit fussy, so pay close attention to its needs.

Keep your plant by bright indirect light so the green parts of the leaves can photosynthesize, but don’t expose it to so much bright direct light that it burns. Water your plant only when the soil feels dry on top, and make sure it has well-draining soil. The most important thing is to pay attention to the humidity level — it prefers a 60% to 80% humidity level, so a humidifier is your best bet for preventing crispy, curled leaves.

Monstera obliqua

If you love the look of a Monstera adansonii but want to try a more challenging plant, the rare Monstera obliqua may be right up your alley. It features extra large fenestrations, so much so that it may sometimes appear to be more hole than leaf.

While Monstera plant care is generally easy, Monstera obliquas are notoriously difficult to maintain, even if you’re an experienced grower. Constant humidity is a must, and you may even want to keep your plant in an indoor greenhouse cabinet. Room temperature is OK for this plant, but you want to be careful with light, as too much shade will lead to wilting leaves and too much direct light will burn them. During the growing season, give your plant a gentle, slow-release organic fertilizer.

With all the different Monstera plants out there, you can definitely find one that matches your specific taste. Keep it simple with a Monstera deliciosa, or go for a more textured look with a Monstera Peru. If you’re a seasoned houseplant lover, you may even want to try your hand at a Monstera obliqua or the Thai Constellation. Whichever plant you go for, it’s bound to grow monstrously with dedicated care and perhaps a bit of extra humidity. 

The most common variety is the money plant, or Crassula ovata, but there are actually roughly 300 species of Crassula plants, including many cultivars of Crassula ovata. Whether you’re growing your jade plants indoors or outdoors, it’s helpful to get a feel of what varieties are out there to build your collection to your liking. To help you find just the right jade plant types for your home, we’ve rounded up the most striking kinds available.

Lucky jade plant (Crassula ovata)

Native to South Africa, the lucky jade plant, or the money plant, is probably what most people are thinking of when they think of the jade plant. Simple but stunning, this ubiquitous succulent resembles a miniature bush or tree with its fleshy, egg-shaped leaves that grow from trunks and branches. The water-storing leaves are typically a jade green color, but they may sometimes feature tinged red edges. This jade plant can grow up to 6 feet tall in its natural habitat, but you can easily keep it compact by pruning it — it’s actually quite a common plant for those who enjoy cultivating bonsai.

When grown outdoors, lucky jade plants should receive some shade to avoid leaf scorch. Indoors, you may want to invest in grow lights to give them an extra boost. You should water your plant when it dries out, but it’s not necessary to feed it more than once a growing season.

Variegated jade plant (Crassula ovata ‘Tricolor’)

The variegated jade plant is quite similar to your basic jade plant, but it features creamy white and green leaves with red edges. (And, for what it’s worth, its leaves also have a more spoon-like shape.) Bright sun is ideal for this jade plant, as it helps it maintain variegation and produce clusters of dense white blooms. As long as you give it a well-draining soil mix and don’t overwater it, the variegated jade plant is a pretty quick grower. It doesn’t need much fertilizing, but you can give it a boost with plant food around mid-spring.

Curly jade plant (Crassula ovata ‘Undulata’)

Similar in form to the common Crassula ovata, the curly jade plant features wavy blue-green leaves with thin red edges. Around spring and summer, it may produce small white and pink flowers if you leave it outside. You want some direct light for healthy leaves, or else your growth may look leggy and uneven. Throughout the growing season, give it a once-a-month feeding with a weak liquid fertilizer solution.

Gollum jade plant (Crassula ovata ‘Gollum’)

The Gollum jade plant is a shrubby succulent with thin, tube-like leaves with reddish tips — it may also have variegated cream leaves as well. In the hottest conditions, this jade plant appreciates afternoon shade, although it naturally prefers full sun.

It does best in gritty, well-draining soil, and you only need to water it when its soil dries out completely. The Gollum jade plant doesn’t need a lot of fertilizer. One spring feeding of a weak liquid fertilizer should be sufficient, but you can apply more fertilizer during the summer if you notice its growth lagging.

Hummel’s sunset golden jade plant (Crassula ovata ‘Hummel’s Sunset’)

What distinguishes this from a common jade plant is its striking foliage color, which, as its name implies, resembles a sunset. Its leaves can be green, but they’re usually a gold and reddish color, which deepens during the colder months (and which, for the record, is not root rot).

Full sun helps it maintain its color, although it can handle partial shade as well. As it gets older, its branches turn thicker and woodier. During the fall and winter, this jade may also yield starry white blooms. In the colder months, make sure to protect your golden jade plant from hard frosts.

Silver dollar jade plant (Crassula arborescens)

The stunning silver dollar jade plant features circular, silvery blue leaves that sometimes have a reddish tinge on the edges. It tends to grow slower than your typical lucky jade plant, which can make it a more manageable pick. If you keep your plant outside, it may produce pink and white star-shaped flowers with enough light. Though an easy grower, the silver dollar jade plant can attract unwanted mealybugs and fungal diseases. You want to inspect your plant often and apply pest or fungal treatments as needed.

The main difference between Crassula ovata and Crassula arborescens is that the latter tends to have bigger leaves. Still, the Crassula arborescens is often considered a jade plant in the gardening community.

While you may have one idea of what a jade plant looks like, there are actually quite a few jade plant varieties out there. With these striking jade plants in mind, you can create a low-maintenance outdoor garden or round out your indoor succulent collection. A combination of bright light, warm temperatures, and gritty soil keeps jade plants happy for years down the line.

Vietnamese coriander (rau ram)

Vietnamese coriander, or rau ram, features inky, flat leaves that tend to grow quite quickly. It features a stronger taste than cilantro, flavoring foods like rice rolls, soups, and noodles with its lemony and peppery notes. With Vietnamese coriander, a single plant can go a long way, as it’s a perennial with an aggressive growing habit.

It’s partial to warm climates in indirect bright light conditions and tends to be a thirsty plant. Besides keeping its soil consistently moist, you want to cut it back regularly to keep it healthy and vigorous. Home gardeners usually start it from cuttings as opposed to seeds. 

Epazote

Give your savory dishes a pungent and earthy kick with epazote. This soft, slender Central American herb is perfect for lending intricate flavor to soups, moles, and quesadillas. Its unique flavor profile can taste like a combination of anise, oregano, and mint, among other notes; suffice to say, a little can go a long way.

Be careful around the seeds and oil, as they’re toxic in large doses. Hardy in zones 6 to 11, epazote is a drought-resistant plant that’s relatively easy to grow as long as you don’t drown its roots and you give it full sun — use grow lights if necessary. It’s commonly started from seed. 

Shiso

Also known as perilla or Japanese basil, shiso is as beautiful as it is tasty. Commonly used in noodles, fillings, and pickles, this nutrient-packed herb features frilly leaves that are generally red or green. Part of the mint family, it features a flavor reminiscent of mint, basil, anise, nuts, and licorice.

Often grown from seed around the time of the last frost, shiso is partial to warm, humid growing conditions. In hot conditions, it appreciates partial afternoon shade, but can generally tolerate full sun — in fact, it’s an annual in zones 2 through 9, but can survive as a perennial in zones 10 and 11. Like other herbs in the mint family, it can spread quickly, so cut it back to keep its growth in check. 

Lemongrass

A go-to in Southeast Asian cooking, lemongrass features an earthy citrus flavor that goes well in stir-fries, marinades, noodles, and soups. While it can live happily in a large container, this tall, stalky tropical herb can thrive in the ground after the last frost in zones 10 and 11 — just as you’d expect from grass or ground cover.

It does best in warm, humid, bright environments. You want to keep the soil relatively moist but never soggy, as overwatering a lemongrass plant can drown its sensitive rhizomes. Be careful when handling lemongrass because its blades have serrated edges. You can propagate lemongrass from the grocery store, but you can also grow it from seeds. 

Chocolate mint 

While you could grow peppermint or spearmint, why not grow chocolate mint for an herb that’s more outside the box? Although it has a chocolate aroma, its taste leans more citrusy and minty, making it a great addition to cocktails and baked goods.

A healthy contender for an indoor plant, chocolate mint thrives in partial shade and moderately moist soil, with little need for extra plant food beyond one feeding of balanced fertilizer per growing season. Given basic care requirements, it can grow prolifically, so prune it back when it reaches 5 inches tall. Since it’s a sterile hybrid, you want to start chocolate mint from cuttings or divided plants rather than seeds. 

Lemon verbena 

Whether you add it to teas, cocktails, marinades, or desserts, lemon verbena can add a refreshing, citrusy taste to your recipes. Though perennial in warm areas, you can keep a healthy lemon verbena plant indoors. Hardy to zones 8 to 11, lemon verbena appreciates loose, well-draining soil and doesn’t need to be watered often, especially if you keep it indoors. To maintain healthy leaves, you might want to invest in grow lights because lemon verbena needs full sun. This herb starts out best as seedlings or divided plants, as growing lemon verbena from seeds can be tricky. 

Winter savory 

Similar in appearance to thyme, winter savory features a peppery, earthy flavor that pairs well with foods like soups, stews, and beans — its dried leaves are sometimes even added to potpourri. Hardy in zones 6 to 9, it’s a relatively low-maintenance herb that you can propagate by seed or stem cuttings. It prefers to be under full sun in sandy, well-draining soil. If you’re growing winter savory, it’s a good idea to prune it back regularly to keep it from getting weak and leggy. 

While you can certainly enjoy a kitchen herb garden full of staples, such as basil, cilantro, and parsley, consider adding the plants above to bring your recipes up a notch. With herbs, such as shiso and chocolate mint, you can challenge yourself to be more adventurous in the kitchen and embed unique flavors into your cooking. And luckily, most of these herbs are just as easy to care for as most common herbs. 

What is a pothos plant?

Also known as Epipremnum aureum or devil’s ivy, pothos are native to the Solomon Islands, where they’re commonly epiphytic plants that climb on tall trees. Pothos feature waxy, heart-shaped leaves that measure around 2 to 4 inches long.

The leathery leaves are predominantly green, but you’ll often find white and yellow variegation. They can trail effortlessly from hanging baskets, but their aerial roots also make it easy for them to climb moss poles. Because of their prolific growth, they’re easy to propagate with stem cuttings in water. 

General care tips for a pothos plant

Pothos plant varieties are notoriously easy to take care of, but they won’t turn heads when they skate by on the bare minimum. To maintain healthy leaves, pothos plants appreciate the best conditions possible. Here’s what that looks like:

• Lighting: Lighting is especially crucial if you want to maintain pothos variegation. Though pothos leaves are sensitive to direct light, they do well with bright indirect light. If your plant has too little light, its leaves will likely revert to green. With too much light, the leaves may appear faded or burnt. 
• Temperature: Room temperature should be sufficient for most pothos plants — you just want to ensure your home temperature stays above 50 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter. 
• Watering: You can let your pothos dry out before watering it deeply again. You want to water your plant more during the growing season and less during the winter. Watering frequency depends on your growing medium, too. Pothos roots dislike holding onto too much water, so you want to keep your plant in a well-draining potting mix. Consider mixing in perlite, cactus soil, and orchid bark to lighten up your soil.
• Fertilizing: Pothos plants are not heavy feeders, but applying a standard liquid fertilizer every two weeks throughout the growing season can boost growth. 

Now that you know the basics of pothos care, let’s dive into the most striking varieties to spice up your home collection.

Jade pothos

Green enthusiasts will appreciate a frills-free jade pothos, which features relatively small and solid green leaves. If you can’t find a pure green jade pothos, you can also keep a variegated pothos under low-light conditions to revert its variegation. With the jade pothos, lighting may not be as much of a concern — just remember to water it when its soil dries out. Bright indirect light, of course, helps your plant grow quicker and look less leggy. 

Golden pothos 

Anywhere you buy plants, there’s a good chance that you’ll run into the ubiquitous golden pothos. With a base of green leaves, the golden pothos flaunts flecks and swirls of yellow variegation. This plant is a fast grower and tends to have slightly bigger leaves than the jade pothos, especially if you give it plenty of light and warmth.

Marble queen pothos 

Another common variety, the marble queen pothos features green leaves with creamy white variegation. In contrast to the golden pothos’ broader patterns, this variegation typically features a more finely ingrained texture. With that said, the leaves tend to be just as big as those on a golden pothos. Again, sufficient lighting is key to maintaining variegation. 

Neon pothos

If you love green leaves but want more of a pop, look into the neon pothos. As its name suggests, its waxy, heart-shaped leaves feature a highlighter green hue. Provide your plant with bright indirect light to ensure your leaves stay a punchy, bright green, but keep in mind that mature leaves will naturally darken with age.

Cebu blue pothos

A little less common than your typical pothos (but still pretty easy to find online), the Cebu blue features silvery-blue leaves with a slight sheen. Its leaf shape is also slightly different from your typical heart-shaped pothos leaves, as the plant features a narrow, pointy leaf silhouette. Regarding care, the Cebu blue shares similar requirements as most typical pothos plants.

N’joy pothos 

A cultivar of the marble queen, the N’joy pothos is also a bit different from your typical heart-shaped pothos. The leaves feature broad white and green variegation. They tend to be small and delicate, prone to burning from light overexposure. The N’joy pothos appreciates more humidity than your average pothos, so consider leaving your plant on a pebble tray with water or using a humidifier next to it.

Global green pothos

The global green pothos plant variety is similar to the jade pothos in appearance, but it features a more subtle visual flair. Featuring a somewhat puckered appearance, its small leaves have a dark green border and a lighter green interior. The plant trails and grows just as quickly as your average pothos. Again, bright indirect light is key for preserving variegation, and you can let the soil dry out before watering it again.

Pothos might often get overlooked because of how common and easygoing they are, but they can make for healthy and stunning houseplants in any indoor space. With a range of pothos varieties available, you can collect them all or find just the perfect plant for your desired vibe.

While it’s not a prized Monstera albo, it deserves a spot in any indoor plant collection, as it makes for a striking hanging basket plant with its cascading offshoots, or spiderettes. If you’re wondering how to care for a spider plant and how to shop for the perfect variety for your home, here’s a guide to help you do just that.

What is a spider plant?

Originating from South Africa, the spider plant, or Chlorophytum comosum, is an incredibly productive houseplant. It’s defined by arching leaves that resemble spider legs and the spiderettes that emerge from those leaves — plus the spiderettes that emerge from those spiderettes, and so on. The leaves can be straight or curly, and they come in variations of solid greens and striped patterns. Occasionally, spider plants push out dainty white blooms; these flowers are relatively insignificant but are an attractive sight.

Because of its productive growth, the spider plant makes for a beautiful hanging basket plant as its spiderettes cascade. And if you find that your plant is quickly taking over your space, consider propagating the spiderettes and sharing them with fellow plant lovers! You can snip them off and let them root in water or soil. Alternatively, you can keep the spiderettes on the mother plant and place their aerial roots in soil and then snip them off when they form longer roots. The spider plant thrives as a perennial in climate zones 9 through 11, but it can survive as a houseplant anywhere.

How do you care for a spider plant?

Spider plant care is easy. As with most houseplants, it’ll thrive with bright indirect light and well-draining soil. If you keep it outside, it does prefer shade during the summer months. It also appreciates cooler temperatures, thriving between 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. While the spider plant dislikes wet feet, it does appreciate evenly moist soil.

If you notice browning tips, the culprit could be many things. If you’ve pulled your plant back from overexposure to light and increased the humidity, consider the watering aspect. You might be under-watering your plant or using hard water, so give your plant a good soak with filtered water. Overfertilizing can also be an issue, so consider cutting back on it as well if you notice any crispy tips.

Types of spider plants

If you’re searching for the perfect plant to round out your houseplant collection, get started with these lush spider plant varieties.

Bonnie spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum “Bonnie”)

This variety of spider plants features leaves that curl. It can either be a variegated variety with a white stripe down the middle between two green edges or a plant that’s purely green. The striped variety tends to be more common, but the solid color can be found at nurseries and online, too. This type of spider plant can tolerate lower light and periods of drought, which makes it quite easy to care for.

Zebra grass spider plant (Chlorophytum laxum “zebra”)

The zebra grass spider plant has arching green leaves edged with a cream or white color. This variety tends to grow wide as opposed to tall. Compared to other spider plants, this type is harder to track down. If you can find it, it makes for a beautiful border plant, doing best in light shade outside.

Hawaiian spider plant (Chlorophytum viridescens “Hawaiian”)

The Hawaiian spider plant starts out with variegated leaves with gold center stripes, but the variegation fades with time to leave you with faintly striped green leaves. Because its leaves are relatively large, this variety can be mistaken for a dracaena. As with most spider plants, it thrives in bright indirect light and prefers moist soil throughout the growing season.

Variegated spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum “vittatum”)

The vittatum spider plant flaunts arching white or yellow leaves with thin green margins. Its leaves can grow up to one to two feet tall in length and width, so this spider plant is great for landscaping uses. Plus, it’s drought-tolerant and generally pest-free, so it’s easy to maintain. Chances are that if you’re looking for a spider plant, this is probably one of the most common types out there.

Reverse spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum “variegatum”)

More or less the opposite of the vittatum spider plant, the variegatum features arching green leaves with white margins — appropriately, it’s sometimes called a “reverse spider plant.” When it comes to spider plants that you can simply grab from a supermarket or nursery, the variegatum is another go-to. It’s similar to the zebra spider plant, except its edges aren’t as bright.

With dappled light, ample watering, and a bit of humidity, you’ll be on your way to witnessing cascades of spiderettes. And while the spider plant is best known for its striking form, don’t forget to pay attention to leaf variegation and texture when you’re shopping for one. With everything from the curly green Bonnie spider plant to the arching reverse spider plant with bold green stripes, you can build a diverse collection of these prolific beauties.

What are rubber plants?

Native to Southeast Asia, rubber plants are some of the most popular houseplants out there — not only are they sleek and stylish, but they’re also affordable and easy to maintain. They feature leathery oval leaves that emerge from woody stems. New rubber plant leaves grow inside reddish sheaths, which drop when the leaves are ready to unfurl.

When you cut the leaves for propagation or accidentally rip them, you might notice a white sap coming out. This sap can irritate the skin and is toxic when ingested, so be careful when you handle a rubber plant — you want to be cautious around kids and pets.

General rubber plant care

Rubber plants are some of the easiest houseplants to care for. When it comes to watering, allow your soil to dry out before giving your plant a drink. Overwatering can cause leaves to yellow and drop, especially during the winter. In the summer, keep your soil evenly moist. The rubber plant isn’t particularly picky about humidity, but it does prefer warm temperatures above 60 degrees Fahrenheit. It’s also not a heavy feeder, but it appreciates monthly feeding with an all-purpose fertilizer for strong branches and glossy leaves.

Like most houseplants, the rubber plant is a fan of bright indirect light. Hypothetically speaking, you could leave a rubber plant in low light. You won’t get much growth from it, though, and it would get leggy from stretching toward the light. Plus, the leaves on the plant might become dull, and variegated varieties could revert to green. Long story short, give your rubber plant as much light as possible — a southwest window is ideal, but keep in mind that too much direct sunlight could burn your foliage.

Every so often, wipe your leaves with a wet cloth. Not only will this make your plant look cleaner, but it’ll also help it absorb more light to convert into energy.

Different rubber plant varieties for your home

Whether you’re looking for the best plant for your home, or you simply want to collect all the rubber plants out there, here’s a list to get you started.

Ficus elastica robusta

Ficus elastica robusta is your straightforward ficus elastica with glossy, leathery medium green leaves. Compared to the following varieties, it’s more of a pure green in color. It’s considered the closest cultivar to the original ficus elastica brought over to the states from Asia; the main difference is that its leaves are wider and glossier than the original plant. All the above care tips apply to this plant for healthy growth.

Ficus elastica burgundy

The ubiquitous burgundy is another one of the quintessential rubber plants out there. It has dark green leaves with bright red veins — the leaves also emerge from red sheaths, contributing to a striking color contrast on the plant. For a variety with an even deeper foliage color, check out the Black Prince. With the burgundy, avoid overwatering it or leaving it next to drafty windows, or else the leaves may start dropping.

Ficus elastica ruby

If you love a splash of red and pink, this rubber plant variety deserves a space in your collection. This ficus elastica flaunts dark mottled leaves with a pinkish, wine-red color all over. The more sun you can give it, the more intense its color will become. Fertilizing will also help upkeep its color, although overdoing it could burn your leaves.

Ficus elastica Tineke

Though it’s a relatively recent cultivar, the Tineke is widely available. It looks similar to the ruby variety without the intense pink color. Great for pattern lovers, its leaves consist of mottled camouflage-style green leaves with cream edges and red leaf ribs. Don’t give the Tineke too much direct light, as the cream edges can burn and lose their appeal.

Ficus altissima “Yellow Gem”

The ficus altissima is more of a cousin to the rubber plant, but its care requirements and characteristics are similar. It features bright green leaves with dark green splashes and a prominent bright green ribbing. Though the leaves are leathery and produce a white sap, they differ from regular rubber plants in that they feel slightly thinner and have more pronounced veins. If we go by its color palette, it makes an excellent companion to plants such as the philodendron brasil, neon pothos, and lemon-lime maranta.

Honorable mention: Peperomia obtusifolia

Here’s an honorable mention: For a plant that’s not quite a rubber plant but still similar, check out the peperomia obtusifolia, which is sometimes called the baby rubber plant. It features thick oval leaves that have more of a shrubby rather than an upright form. If you already have your fair share of rubber plants, consider this plant.

Rubber plants can make for some of the most long-lasting pillars in a houseplant collection, as long as you don’t overwater them or snap their leaves. With sufficient fertilizing and bright indirect light, they will truly thrive and reward you with beautiful colors. From standard green varieties to splashier pink ones, choose from many rubber plant types. They won’t be tricky to source down, either. With a simple walk into a garden center or a quick search online, you can pick up this beloved common houseplant sooner than you think!

Hoya pubicalyx

Native to the Philippines, the hoya pubicalyx is relatively unfussy. Its speckled flat green leaves look great trailing from a hanging basket. As long as you fertilize throughout the growing season and keep your plant in indirect sunlight, you should see relatively quick growth. When it’s time to bloom, the pubicalyx will push out dusty pink, star-shaped flowers with a sweet fragrance. You should water your plant when the soil dries out and the leaves feel slightly limp — remember to dump out excess water to prevent root rot.

Hoya australis

Somewhat resembling the ZZ plant, the climbing hoya australis flaunts beautiful cream flowers and glossy oval leaves. It’s a relatively easy and quick-growing hoya, tolerating low light and humidity levels. The australis also doesn’t have strict watering requirements — you can get away with watering it infrequently. Just remember that it prefers well-draining soil mix with mostly cactus soil and perlite, since it doesn’t tolerate being waterlogged. To promote growth, feed it once or twice a month during the spring and summer.

Hoya carnosa

The hoya carnosa, which hails from East Asia and Australia, is one of the most common hoya plants out there, yielding fragrant white and pink star-shaped blooms. It has thick green leaves that trail, although you’ll often see plant enthusiasts training it with a trellis. You’ll want to give your carnosa consistent waterings and medium humidity so that it can thrive. Although the green type is prevalent, you’ll also find varieties with splashes of cream and pink. If you do have a variegated carnosa, make sure that the plant receives adequate bright indirect light to maintain its color. Feed your plant once or twice a month during the growing season with a weak diluted liquid fertilizer to give it an extra boost.

Hoya obovata

Originating from Indonesia, the hoya obovata features waxy, ovate green leaves and occasionally white and pink blooms. It prefers bright indirect light and well-draining, airy soil. It can tolerate lower humidity and warmer temperatures, but it does best in moderate humidity and temperatures. This fast-growing variety will appreciate consistent bi-monthly feedings during the spring and summer with a high-nitrogen fertilizer. Keeping your obovata rootbound can increase its chances of blooming, so don’t be too hasty to repot your plant!

Hoya krinkle

Are you looking for a hoya with a bit of texture? The hoya krinkle, native to northern Australia, features petal-shaped leaves and pink star-shaped flowers similar to the hoya carnosa, except the foliage has puckered dimples on its thick, glossy surface. It appreciates adequate humidity and bright indirect light. Drought tolerant by nature, it can survive long periods between waterings.

Hoya wayetii

Originating from the Philippines and other parts of Southeast Asia, the hoya wayetii consists of long, finger-like leaves. This plant can tolerate full sun, but it will thrive in dappled light, since overexposure can lead to leaf scorch. Since its leaves store water, you can allow it to dry out between waterings and keep it in a drier environment. Occasionally, it puts out beautiful dark red blooms in the spring and summer. Fertilizing it during the growing season will encourage new leaves and flowers; a bimonthly schedule should be sufficient.

While similar to succulents, hoyas make for the perfect indoor houseplants because they don’t need full sun to develop beautiful, thick leaves. Once you’ve decided which hoya (or hoyas!) you want to add to your collection, the next step is understanding its specific care requirements to ensure that it grows and pushes out lovely leaves and blooms. From obovatas to wayetiis, you’ll discover a wide variety of easy-care hoyas out there to bring into your home.